Aberdeenshire

Aberdeenshire is a maritime county in northeastern Scotland, within the Commonwealth of England, bordered to the north and east by the North Sea; to the south by Angusshire and Perthshire; to the west by Invernessshire; and to the northwest by Banff. The county extends approximately 85 miles from northeast to southwest, with its widest point reaching 40 miles, covering a total area of 1,971 square miles. The coastline, stretching for 60 miles, is a mix of rugged cliffs and inlets, with several small harbours supporting local fishing and trade.

The region is defined by a varied landscape, from fertile lowlands along the coast and river valleys to the rugged, mountainous terrain of the west. The Grampian Mountains extend into Aberdeenshire, with Bennachie and Lochnagar standing as prominent features. The Dee and Don rivers carve through the county, providing vital water routes and supporting agriculture, which is a central aspect of local life. Farming, particularly cattle and sheep rearing, dominates the economy, alongside fishing and the modest trade brought in by coastal settlements.

The county's towns and villages are scattered, with Aberdeen serving as the principal port and market town. Though fortified residences and castles dot the landscape, much of the rural population lives in small crofts and hamlets. Roads are rough and often treacherous, particularly in the upland regions, making travel slow and heavily dependent on weather conditions. Despite its remoteness, Aberdeenshire maintains trade links with ports along the North Sea, as well as overland routes leading southward toward Edinburgh and beyond.

Aberdeen serves as the principal burgh, where the Sheriff of Aberdeenshire administers justice on behalf of the Crown. The sheriff, a royal appointment, oversees law enforcement, collects taxes and ensures the execution of royal decrees. However, real authority is often contested by the Earl Marischal, whose hereditary power and influence extend across the region, controlling large estates, military levies and local governance.

Aberdeenshire's climate is cold but less prone to extreme low temperatures than counties farther south and inland. The North Sea moderates winter conditions, preventing severe frosts but bringing frequent storms and damp weather. The terrain is varied, with fertile lowlands in the east supporting agriculture, while the western highlands, where the Grampians rise, remain rugged and sparsely populated. The rivers Dee and Don provide vital water routes, sustaining settlements and supporting fishing, milling and limited river transport.

The population of the county (c. 1650) is estimated at 35,582, though dispersed among scattered villages, crofts and fortified strongholds. Aberdeen itself is the commercial and administrative hub, boasting a thriving harbour and a royal burgh's autonomy under its provost and town council. Fishing, wool production and trade with North Sea ports contribute to the economy, though inland communities rely primarily on subsistence farming and cattle rearing.

Roads are rough and often hazardous, particularly in the highland regions, where travel is slow and heavily dependent on the seasons. Many noble estates and castles, such as Dunnottar, Fyvie and Kildrummy, serve as centres of power, offering protection in times of conflict. Banditry and feuding among clans remain a persistent issue, particularly in the western uplands, where the Crown's authority is weaker. The county's strategic position on the coast makes it a valuable but contested territory, subject to the ambitions of both local lords and the central government.

Earldoms

Aberdeenshire is divided into the five earldoms of Mar, Garioch, Strathbogie, Formartine and Buchan. Mar occupies the southwest and southern regions along the River Dee, extending south of the Don. Garioch lies north of the Don and west of Kintore, while Strathbogie stretches northwest of Garioch, its southern tip touching the northern boundary of Mar. Formartine lies east of Garioch and south of the River Ythan. The northeastern district, Buchan, is situated north of the Ythan and east of the Deveron and upper Strathbogie.

Upper Mar is a wild, rugged and mountainous region, though the land becomes gentler toward the east and northeast, where moorland and barren stretches dominate much of the landscape. Extensive forests, primarily of fir, produce fine timber and both the Don and Dee rivers originate in this region. Within Mar, Balmoral consists of a tower house and a hunting lodge rather than the grand castle it would later become. At the end of a deep glen in Strathdee, the Pass of Ballater serves as the eastern gateway into the Grampians, providing a critical route through the mountains.

Buchan, covering much of the county's northern and eastern coasts, is less hilly than the inland territories. Many of its forests have been cut down, though large portions of the land remain well wooded. Once the ancient domain of the Earls of Buchan, the region underwent significant change after Robert Bruce, in 1320, redistributed the land among his supporters. Although the title of Earl of Buchan was later revived in 1601 within the Erskine family, it was granted without the restoration of its ancestral lands.

The other three districts — Garioch, Strathbogie and Formartine — are, in general, well cultivated. Toward the coast, the county is comparatively level, but much of the interior extends into the wilderness of the Central Highlands, where the landscape remains untamed and sparsely settled.

Cairngorm Mountains

These form the eastern portion of the larger Grampian range, spanning southwestern Banff, western Aberdeenshire and the adjoining region of eastern Invernessshire. These rugged highlands are characterised by steep, windswept slopes, deep glens and a harsh climate that shapes the landscape. Travel through the Cairngorms is slow and demanding, with few established paths and many stretches of uneven ground covered in heather, bog and loose rock. The valleys and lower slopes are often wet, with small burns and marshy ground making footing uncertain, especially after heavy rains.

Higher up, the land becomes bare and windswept, with long ridges and broad, flat summits that offer little shelter from the elements. Snow remains on the highest peaks well into summer, and mist can descend quickly, obscuring visibility and making navigation difficult. The wind is a constant presence, funnelling through passes and sweeping across the plateaus, often carrying a biting chill even in warmer months. Streams and rivers are common, but their crossings can be treacherous in flood. In the more remote areas, shelter is scarce, with only the occasional hunting lodge or shepherd's hut breaking the expanse of empty land.

The highest peak in the region, Ben Macdhui (4,296 feet), stands just within the Banff border, making it the second-highest summit in Scotland. Along the Inverness-Banff boundary lies Braeriach (4,248 feet), while Cairntoul (4,241 feet) and Cairn Eas (3,556 feet) are entirely within Aberdeenshire. Several other prominent peaks rise along the Banff-Aberdeen border, including Beinn a' Bhùird (3,924 feet), Ben Avon (3,843 feet), Carn Mor (2,636 feet) and Buck of Cabrach (2,368 feet).

Aberdeenshire's western boundary with Perthshire follows a line connecting the summits of Sgòr Mòr (3,300 feet), Carn Bhac (3,014 feet), Beinn Iutharn Mhòr (3,424 feet) and Cairnwell (3,059 feet). The border with Angus is similarly defined by mountain peaks, including Càrn an Tuirc (3,484 feet), Tolmount (3,143 feet), Broad Cairn (3,268 feet), Mount Keen (3,077 feet) and the Hill of Cat (2,435 feet). The highest summits are concentrated in western Banff and Aberdeenshire, with elevations gradually declining as one moves eastward along these boundaries.

Beyond the Cairngorm range, other prominent peaks in Aberdeenshire include Lochnagar (3,786 feet), a mountain steeped in legend and favoured for hunting and exploration. Morven (2,862 feet), Bennachie (1,619 feet) and Tap o' Noth (1,852 feet) rise as distinctive landmarks, their summits offering commanding views over the rolling hills and fertile lowlands of the county.

Water Features

The Don River rises in west-central Aberdeenshire near the Banff border and flows east before turning southeast, reaching the sea two or three miles north of Aberdeen. The Dee River, in contrast, runs entirely through the southern part of the county. Its source lies deep in the Cairngorms, from where it flows through the vale of Strathdee, passing near Braemar and forming the notable Linn of Dee waterfall. The river then alters its course from southeast to east-northeast, entering Kincardine for about twelve miles before reaching the North Sea at Aberdeen city.

In the north, the Deveron River originates in Strathbogie, flowing northeastward. Though its course repeatedly forms the boundary between Aberdeenshire and Banff, it never does so for more than five miles at a stretch. It eventually reaches the sea at Banff city. The Ythan River, which flows southeast, empties into the sea between Peterhead and Aberdeen, while the Ugie River runs eastward across northern Aberdeenshire, reaching its mouth near Peterhead. These five rivers are all salmon-bearing but are too rapid and shallow to be navigable.

The Don River passes by Kildrummy Castle, an ancient stronghold of the Earls of Mar, still intact and occupied as of 1650. Along the Dee, the Pannanich Wells serve as a well-known spa and watering place, romantically situated within the valley. The county's most significant lakes include Loch Muick, a deep body of water measuring 2¼ miles in length and 256 feet deep, located near the Angus border, and Strathbeg Lough, which lies near Rattray Head on the coast.

Aberdeenshire's coastline is bold and rocky, particularly between Peterhead and Aberdeen, where it remains fairly uniform and lacks deep lochs or inlets. The most prominent headlands are Troup Head, Kinnaird Head at Fraserburgh, Rattray Head between Fraserburgh and Peterhead, and More Head. Among the few indentations along the shore, Gamrie Bay and Cruden Bay are the most notable.

People

The inhabitants of Aberdeenshire are distinct from other Scots, both in speech and appearance. Their dialect is marked by a slow pronunciation and a broad accent, setting it apart from the faster, more clipped speech of southern Scots. Along the coast, the people have a noticeably different physiognomy compared to those living inland, shaped by generations of fishing, seafaring and exposure to the harsh North Sea climate. In general, Aberdonians are known for their energy, resilience and enterprising nature, adapting well to both agricultural and maritime life.

On the northeastern coast, Fraserburgh is a small but growing village, home to just 283 people despite being established only seventy years ago. Though modest in size, it serves as an important supply port for the herring fishery, a trade that continues to expand along the North Sea coast. Peterhead, located in Buchan a mile south of the Ugie's mouth, is even smaller, with a population of just 189. Despite its size, Peterhead boasts one of the finest and safest harbours on Scotland's east coast, offering a natural refuge for ships navigating these often dangerous waters.

Goods & Services

Aberdeen is the most important market^4R in the county; Peterhead is a market also. These markets together produce building stone and copious amounts of granite^5R, red sandstone and slate. Gems include cairngorm^3R, beryl and topaz. Masonry is an important trade.

Among foodstuffs, there are brewing, distilling^2R, beef and dried fish. In addition to spinning, cotton cloth^3R, linen, sailcloth, burlap and wool cloth are woven, and woolens are made. Hides^2R are an important export.

Fir^2R trees are cut into lumber for shipbuilding^5R. Pulp and cloth is turned into paper and paper products^2R.

Fields grow barley, oats and hay, along with turnips. Cattle and sheep raising occur. The greatest supply of food comes from fish, especially herring^4R and salmon^2R.